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  3. Kuna Molas

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Mola with cat with collar and bell, catching bird. (exterior)

Kuna Molas

Body

Mola, a Kuna word, has several meanings: fabric or cloth, shirt or upper garment for men or women, brightly decorated women's blouses, or colorful layers of fabric, cut and hand-sewn into designs for fronts and backs of Kuna women´s blouses. Kuna women from the San Blas Archipelago produce most of the work, though some molas are also made by Kuna women from inland Panama and western Colombia. Developed in the late 1800s from an earlier tradition of body painting, designs were first painted on cloth and later sewn. Early blouses, dark blue with wide red hems, evolved into those with multi-color designed borders. Borders were widened over time into the rectangular panels of today, and motifs, too, have changed, integrating images from daily life and popular culture. Red, yellow, and dark blue or black remain the preferred colors.

Designs are produced with a combination of reverse appliqué and appliqué. Two or more layers of different colors of cotton cloth are hand-sewn loosely together. The design and its details are cut through the top layer or layers to reach the color selected by the worker. Minute hand stitches attach each folded cut edge to a lower layer. Frequently small scraps of color are inserted beneath the top layer and worked in tas-tas, slits, to emphasize special details of background pattern.

Traditionally worn with a wrap-around skirt (sabured) and a red-and-yellow head scarf (muswe), molas are an important reflection of women´s skills and Kuna identity. Shown here is a sample of molas from the museum collections, including several "inside" views to illustrate technique. Images © UO Museum of Natural and Cultural History. Production of this gallery was generously supported by The Ford Family Foundation.

Further Reading:

Sherzer , Dina and Joel Sherzer
1976    Mormaknamaloe: The Cuna Mola. In: Ritual and Symbol in Native Central America, ed. by P. Young and J. Howe, pp. 23-42. University of Oregon Anthropological Papers No. 9. Eugene.

Salvado, Mari Lyn
1997    The Art of Being Kuna. UCLA Fowler Museum of Cultural History, Los Angeles.

Image Gallery
Image
Mola blouse with birds in four-square pattern. (exterior, front)

Catalog #3-142 Mola blouse with birds in four-square pattern. (exterior, front) 34 x 21.5 inches - Early style, with narrow sleeves and thin decorative band between panel and yoke. Bought in 1942, with five layers of cotton fabric on both front and back.

Gallery Caption (Only for Collections Gallery Images)

Catalog #3-142
Mola blouse with birds in four-square pattern. (exterior, front)
34 x 21.5 inches - Early style, with narrow sleeves and thin decorative band between panel and yoke.
Bought in 1942, with five layers of cotton fabric on both front and back.

Image
Mola blouse with birds in four-square pattern. (interior, front)

Catalog #3-142  Mola blouse with birds in four-square pattern. (interior, front) 34 x 21.5 inches - Early style, with narrow sleeves and thin decorative band between panel and yoke. Bought in 1942, with five layers of cotton fabric on both front and back.

Gallery Caption (Only for Collections Gallery Images)

Catalog #3-142 
Mola blouse with birds in four-square pattern. (interior, front)
34 x 21.5 inches - Early style, with narrow sleeves and thin decorative band between panel and yoke.
Bought in 1942, with five layers of cotton fabric on both front and back.

Image
Mola blouse with birds in four-square pattern. (exterior, back)

Catalog #3-142 Mola blouse with birds in four-square pattern. (exterior, back) 34 x 21.5 inches - Red top layer was added over a completed mola to enlarge the blouse. Bought in 1942, with five layers of cotton fabric on both front and back.

Gallery Caption (Only for Collections Gallery Images)

Catalog #3-142
Mola blouse with birds in four-square pattern. (exterior, back)
34 x 21.5 inches - Red top layer was added over a completed mola to enlarge the blouse.
Bought in 1942, with five layers of cotton fabric on both front and back.

Image
Mola blouse with birds in four-square pattern. (interior, back)

Catalog #3-142 Mola blouse with birds in four-square pattern. (interior, back) 34 x 21.5 inches - Red top layer was added over a completed mola to enlarge the blouse. Bought in 1942, with five layers of cotton fabric on both front and back.

Gallery Caption (Only for Collections Gallery Images)

Catalog #3-142
Mola blouse with birds in four-square pattern. (interior, back)
34 x 21.5 inches - Red top layer was added over a completed mola to enlarge the blouse.
Bought in 1942, with five layers of cotton fabric on both front and back.

Image
Mola probably depicting a baseball game. (exterior)

Catalog #3-419a Mola probably depicting a baseball game. (exterior) 20 x 14.5 inches 

Gallery Caption (Only for Collections Gallery Images)

Catalog #3-419a
Mola probably depicting a baseball game. (exterior)
20 x 14.5 inches 

Image
Mola probably depicting a baseball game. (interior)

Catalog #3-419a Mola probably depicting a baseball game. (interior) 20 x 14.5 inches

Gallery Caption (Only for Collections Gallery Images)

Catalog #3-419a
Mola probably depicting a baseball game. (interior)
20 x 14.5 inches

Image
Mola with two birds standing over a flower in a pot. (exterior)

Catalog #3-419b Mola with two birds standing over a flower in a pot. (exterior) 19 x 13 inches

Gallery Caption (Only for Collections Gallery Images)

Catalog #3-419b
Mola with two birds standing over a flower in a pot. (exterior)
19 x 13 inches

Image
Mola with two birds standing over a flower in a pot. (interior)

Catalog #3-419b Mola with two birds standing over a flower in a pot. (interior) 19 x 13 inches

Gallery Caption (Only for Collections Gallery Images)

Catalog #3-419b
Mola with two birds standing over a flower in a pot. (interior)
19 x 13 inches

Image
Mola with aquatic figures. (interior)

Catalog #3-419c Mola with aquatic figures. (interior) 17 x 14 inches  

Gallery Caption (Only for Collections Gallery Images)

Catalog #3-419c
Mola with aquatic figures. (interior)
17 x 14 inches
 

Image
Mola with aquatic figures. (exterior)

Catalog #3-419c Mola with aquatic figures. (exterior) 17 x 14 inches

Gallery Caption (Only for Collections Gallery Images)

Catalog #3-419c
Mola with aquatic figures. (exterior)
17 x 14 inches

Image
Mola with bird and fish. (exterior)

Catalog #3-419d Mola with bird and fish. (exterior) 18.5 x 15.25 inches

Gallery Caption (Only for Collections Gallery Images)

Catalog #3-419d
Mola with bird and fish. (exterior)
18.5 x 15.25 inches

Image
Mola with bird and fish. (interior)

Catalog #3-419d Mola with bird and fish. (interior) 18.5 x 15.25 inches

Gallery Caption (Only for Collections Gallery Images)

Catalog #3-419d
Mola with bird and fish. (interior)
18.5 x 15.25 inches

Image
Mola with bull and small anthropomorph. (exterior)

Catalog #3-419e Mola with bull and small anthropomorph. (exterior) 17 x 14 inches Writing includes "TORO," Spanish for bull, and possibly a year designation on the animal.

Gallery Caption (Only for Collections Gallery Images)

Catalog #3-419e
Mola with bull and small anthropomorph. (exterior) 17 x 14 inches
Writing includes "TORO," Spanish for bull, and possibly a year designation on the animal.

Image
Mola with bull and small anthropomorph. (interior)

Catalog #3-419e Mola with bull and small anthropomorph. (interior) 17 x 14 inches  Writing includes "TORO," Spanish for bull, and possibly a year designation on the animal.

Gallery Caption (Only for Collections Gallery Images)

Catalog #3-419e
Mola with bull and small anthropomorph. (interior) 17 x 14 inches 
Writing includes "TORO," Spanish for bull, and possibly a year designation on the animal.

Image
Mola with large two-headed, three-legged animal. (exterior)

Catalog #3-419f Mola with large two-headed, three-legged animal. (exterior) 18 x 13 inches Writing may spell "DRAGON."

Gallery Caption (Only for Collections Gallery Images)

Catalog #3-419f
Mola with large two-headed, three-legged animal. (exterior) 18 x 13 inches
Writing may spell "DRAGON."

Image
Mola with large two-headed, three-legged animal. (interior)

Catalog #3-419f Mola with large two-headed, three-legged animal. (interior) 18 x 13 inches Writing may spell "DRAGON."

Gallery Caption (Only for Collections Gallery Images)

Catalog #3-419f
Mola with large two-headed, three-legged animal. (interior) 18 x 13 inches
Writing may spell "DRAGON."

Image
Mola blouse with two birds, probably in a cage. (full view, front)

Catalog #3-1177 Mola blouse with two birds, probably in a cage. (full view, front) 31.5 x 22.5 inches Rayon yoke and sleeves.

Gallery Caption (Only for Collections Gallery Images)

Catalog #3-1177
Mola blouse with two birds, probably in a cage. (full view, front) 31.5 x 22.5 inches
Rayon yoke and sleeves.

Image
Mola blouse with two birds, probably in a cage. (detail, front)

Catalog #3-1177 Mola blouse with two birds, probably in a cage. (detail, front) 31.5 x 22.5 inches Rayon yoke and sleeves.

Gallery Caption (Only for Collections Gallery Images)

Catalog #3-1177
Mola blouse with two birds, probably in a cage. (detail, front) 31.5 x 22.5 inches
Rayon yoke and sleeves.

Image
Mola blouse with two fish, probably in a cage. (full view, back)

Catalog #3-1177 Mola blouse with two fish, probably in a cage. (full view, back) 31.5 x 22.5 inches Rayon yoke and sleeves.

Gallery Caption (Only for Collections Gallery Images)

Catalog #3-1177
Mola blouse with two fish, probably in a cage. (full view, back) 31.5 x 22.5 inches
Rayon yoke and sleeves.

Image
Mola blouse with two fish, probably in a cage. (detail, back)

Catalog #3-1177 Mola blouse with two fish, probably in a cage. (detail, back) 31.5 x 22.5 inches Rayon yoke and sleeves.

Gallery Caption (Only for Collections Gallery Images)

Catalog #3-1177
Mola blouse with two fish, probably in a cage. (detail, back) 31.5 x 22.5 inches
Rayon yoke and sleeves.

Image
Mola with sun motif. (exterior)

Catalog #3-1395 Mola with sun motif. (exterior) 16 x 13 inches

Gallery Caption (Only for Collections Gallery Images)

Catalog #3-1395
Mola with sun motif. (exterior) 16 x 13 inches

Image
Mola with sun motif. (interior)

Catalog #3-1395 Mola with sun motif. (interior) 16 x 13 inches

Gallery Caption (Only for Collections Gallery Images)

Catalog #3-1395
Mola with sun motif. (interior) 16 x 13 inches

Image
Mola with cat with collar and bell, catching bird. (exterior)

Catalog #3-1296 Mola with cat with collar and bell, catching bird. (exterior) 16 x 13 inches Chain stitch-embroidered detailing

Gallery Caption (Only for Collections Gallery Images)

Catalog #3-1296
Mola with cat with collar and bell, catching bird. (exterior) 16 x 13 inches
Chain stitch-embroidered detailing

Image
Mola with cat with collar and bell, catching bird. (interior)

Catalog #3-1296 Mola with cat with collar and bell, catching bird. (interior) 16 x 13 inches Chain stitch-embroidered detailing

Gallery Caption (Only for Collections Gallery Images)

Catalog #3-1296
Mola with cat with collar and bell, catching bird. (interior) 16 x 13 inches
Chain stitch-embroidered detailing

Image
Child's mola blouse with two cats. (full view, front)

Catalog #3-1452 Child's mola blouse with two cats. (full view, front) 24 x 18.5 inches Polyester yoke and sleeves.

Gallery Caption (Only for Collections Gallery Images)

Catalog #3-1452
Child's mola blouse with two cats. (full view, front) 24 x 18.5 inches
Polyester yoke and sleeves.

Image
Child's mola blouse with two cats. (detail, front)

Catalog #3-1452 Child's mola blouse with two cats. (detail, front) 24 x 18.5 inches Polyester yoke and sleeves.

Gallery Caption (Only for Collections Gallery Images)

Catalog #3-1452
Child's mola blouse with two cats. (detail, front) 24 x 18.5 inches
Polyester yoke and sleeves.

Image
Child's mola blouse with two cats. (full view, back)

Catalog #3-1452 Child's mola blouse with two cats. (full view, back) 24 x 18.5 inches Puffed sleeves and wide decorative band between panel and yoke are later innovations.

Gallery Caption (Only for Collections Gallery Images)

Catalog #3-1452
Child's mola blouse with two cats. (full view, back) 24 x 18.5 inches
Puffed sleeves and wide decorative band between panel and yoke are later innovations.

Image
Child's mola blouse with two cats. (detail, back)

Catalog #3-1452 Child's mola blouse with two cats. (detail, back) 24 x 18.5 inches Puffed sleeves and wide decorative band between panel and yoke are later innovations.

Gallery Caption (Only for Collections Gallery Images)

Catalog #3-1452
Child's mola blouse with two cats. (detail, back) 24 x 18.5 inches
Puffed sleeves and wide decorative band between panel and yoke are later innovations.

Image
Mola showing man with gun in hammock, monkeys in banana plants. (exterior)

Catalog #3-1458 Mola showing man with gun in hammock, monkeys in banana plants. (exterior) 18.25 x 14.5 inches Spanish “EL GUINEO” refers to the “banana” or "banana plant." May be paired with next mola (#3-1459).

Gallery Caption (Only for Collections Gallery Images)

Catalog #3-1458
Mola showing man with gun in hammock, monkeys in banana plants. (exterior) 18.25 x 14.5 inches
Spanish “EL GUINEO” refers to the “banana” or "banana plant."
May be paired with next mola (#3-1459).

Image
Mola showing man with gun in hammock, monkeys in banana plants. (interior)

Catalog #3-1458 Mola showing man with gun in hammock, monkeys in banana plants. (interior) 18.25 x 14.5 inches  Spanish “EL GUINEO” refers to the “banana” or "banana plant." May be paired with next mola (#3-1459).

Gallery Caption (Only for Collections Gallery Images)

Catalog #3-1458
Mola showing man with gun in hammock, monkeys in banana plants. (interior) 18.25 x 14.5 inches 
Spanish “EL GUINEO” refers to the “banana” or "banana plant."
May be paired with next mola (#3-1459).

Image
Mola with anthropomorphic rooster and beer bottle, cups, and flag. (exterior)

Catalog #3-1459 Mola with anthropomorphic rooster and beer bottle, cups, and flag. (exterior) 19.5 x 14 inches Rooster's shoulder decorations may represent military epaulets. Writing on bottle includes, "Esta criada cerveza," Spanish for "Beer is brewed." A strip was added on the side to enlarge the shirt and is embellished with a smaller bird. May be paired with the previous mola (#3-1458).

Gallery Caption (Only for Collections Gallery Images)

Catalog #3-1459
Mola with anthropomorphic rooster and beer bottle, cups, and flag. (exterior) 19.5 x 14 inches
Rooster's shoulder decorations may represent military epaulets. Writing on bottle includes, "Esta criada cerveza," Spanish for "Beer is brewed." A strip was added on the side to enlarge the shirt and is embellished with a smaller bird.
May be paired with the previous mola (#3-1458).

Image
Mola with anthropomorphic rooster and beer bottle, cups, and flag. (interior)

Catalog #3-1459 Mola with anthropomorphic rooster and beer bottle, cups, and flag. (interior) 19.5 x 14 inches Rooster's shoulder decorations may represent military epaulets. Writing on bottle includes, "Esta criada cerveza," Spanish for "Beer is brewed." A strip was added on the side to enlarge the shirt and is embellished with a smaller bird. May be paired with the previous mola (#3-1458).

Gallery Caption (Only for Collections Gallery Images)

Catalog #3-1459
Mola with anthropomorphic rooster and beer bottle, cups, and flag. (interior) 19.5 x 14 inches
Rooster's shoulder decorations may represent military epaulets. Writing on bottle includes, "Esta criada cerveza," Spanish for "Beer is brewed." A strip was added on the side to enlarge the shirt and is embellished with a smaller bird.
May be paired with the previous mola (#3-1458).

Collections Galleries

Bird, snake, lizards, and fish, Yirrkalla, Arnhem Land 30.5" x 17.75", Cat. No. 6-36
Aboriginal Australian Bark Paintings
Goniatite detail, Muensteroceras oweni, Rockford, Indiana, Rockford Formation, Mississippian (Kinderhookian) - Specimen #P6372A
Ammonite Fossils
Cebus sp. Capuchin
University of Oregon Comparative Primate Collection
7-38
Tapa Cloth
Killdeer, Charadrius vociferus - 37.54 x 27.98 mm
Birds' Eggs
Bighorn sheep, anterior view of different specimen
Vertebrate Skulls
See all collections galleries

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The Museum encourages the use of its collections for research, educational, and artistic purposes, through loans, exhibits, tours, class visits, and hosting visiting researchers.

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